It was exciting to have known Emilio personally and interviewed him for one my features for Prim Magazine last season to then to see him emerge from the off schedule show into the on one amongst the best London Fashion week has to offer. I am not going to lie and say that I wish Emilio revisited his sculptural roots, but he did take a new approach to a fresh chapter in his life, taking inspiration from installation instead of sculpture. Clad in his uniform of white t-shirt and dark trousers he looked a little nervous before the show when we met outside the tents but after a delightful hug I saw that he was confident and sure of what he was about to unveil.
For his London Fashion Week on-schedule debut, Emilio de la Morena's collection is a much softer, more delicate version of what we've seen last year. His S/S 10 collection, based on an inspiration of tulle and fisherman nets, which he attributes to the installations of Annette Messager, incorporates a lot of intricate layering, folding and drapes.
The collection itself is a mix of his signature body-con dresses played up in more fluid silhouettes with several cropped bomber jackets, which appear to be made of leather but cleverly uses a mix of plasticized jersey overlaid in tulle. Motifs of the sea can be seen through the details and decorations of crystal-pleated fins, intricate folds resembling sea shells as well as the feminine colour palette of nude, olive greens, jellyfish blue and a touch of lilac, which we've come to see as the leading palette in NY fashion week.